The whitening efficacy of a compound formula examined using an ultraviolet‐induced skin melanization model

• DOI: 10.1111/jocd.16332
• Publication Date: 2024-04-26T05:39:36Z
• Authors: Xiaohong Shu; Xin Dong; Yuhong Ma; Wei Huo; Zhaoxia Li; Lin Zou; Ying Tang; Li Li; Xi Wang
• Keywords: Adult; Melanins; Niacinamide; 0301 basic medicine; Ultraviolet Rays; Skin Lightening Preparations; Arbutin; Skin Pigmentation; Ascorbic Acid; Xanthophylls; 03 medical and health sciences; Humans; Female; Skin

AbstractBackgroundIn Eastern culture, a fair complexion is the standard of beauty, leading to appearance‐related distress among women with darker skin or facial pigmentation. Women seek whitening cosmetics to enhance their skin tone or correct their pigmentation, but their safety and effectiveness are paramount factors to consider. In this study, we evaluated the safety and whitening effects of a compound formula denoted as TEST comprising astaxanthin, nicotinamide, arbutin, and tranexamic acid.MethodsPrimary skin irritation and skin‐whitening efficacy were examined. Three qualified melanization areas were treated with TEST, 7% ascorbic acid, or a blank. Skin color, the individual type angle (ITA°), and the melanin index (MI) were compared among treatment areas.ResultsTEST did not induce a skin response and exhibited a significantly higher ITA° than the blank, while no significant difference was observed with that of 7% ascorbic acid. Furthermore, the MI of TEST was significantly reduced posttreatment.ConclusionsTEST could be integrated into spot‐fading and skin‐whitening cosmeceuticals or functional cosmetics.