A Functional Skincare Formulation Mixed With Retinyl Propionate, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, and Vitamin C on Antiaging and Whitening Han Women in Shanghai, China

• DOI: 10.1111/jocd.16747
• Publication Date: 2025-03-12T04:36:31Z
• Authors: Wei Fang; Jian Qiao; Fan Zhang; Min Chen; Qianjin Bian

ABSTRACTBackgroundHuman skin is remodeled as a result of aging. Retinoids (or retinol derivatives) can intervene in this process, which can be optimally formulated and concentrated by providing maximum antiaging effects with minimal irritation.AimsTo determine the optimal ratio of two retinol derivatives hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), retinol propionate (RP), and vitamin C (VitC) in dermal remodeling and preventing skin aging, and to investigate their synergistic antiaging and whitening effects in vitro and in vivo.MethodsAn in vitro model of human skin fibroblast (HSF) was established to evaluate the cellular viability of VitC and/or RP/HPR treatment. We quantified the expression of genes associated with antiaging and retinol receptors in HSFs treated with VitC and/or RP/HPR. The research was conducted on 120 volunteer women to quantify the antiaging efficacy of functional skincare formulation.ResultsA combination of VitC and RP/HPR at a weight ratio of 40:3 achieved the optimal and safe antiaging performance in vitro. Transcription of aging‐associated genes and the release of elastin and senescence‐associated secretory phenotypes (SASPs) increased significantly after UV irradiation, whereas VitC and RP/HPR cotreatment can inhibit this increase. The synergistic stimulation of VitC and RP/HPR cotreatment showed higher efficacy in the recovery ability of skin injury.ConclusionsOur results indicated the advanced skin antiaging and whitening effects of VitC and RP/HPR cotreatment in vitro and in vivo. A combination of VitC and RP/HPR is a potent strategy to postpone skin aging and improve skin whitening for middle‐aged women.Trial RegistrationClinicalTrials.gov identifier: 2020‐LS‐023