Phase-resolved modelling of wave transformation in the surf zone over idealised rough bottoms

• DOI: 10.48550/arxiv.2503.20374
• Publication Date: 2025-03-26
• Authors: Emile Guélard Anc...; Damien Sous; Denis Morichon; Patrick Marsaleix; Héloïse Michaud; Solène Dealbera
• Keywords: Surf zone; Wave model

In order to understand and predict coastal flooding processes in rocky environments, it is necessary take into account bottom roughness, which plays a key role wave transformation general dynamics. The present work aims implement parameterisation of roughness-induced dissipation 3D non-hydrostatic phase-resolved models, based on the Symphonie code (MARSALEIX et al., 2019). modified model compared with laboratory experiments carried out surf zone linear slope (DEALBERA 2024). Different irregular waves were tested various configurations roughness (represented by block different sizes distributions). Wave generation induced breaking first parametrised respect data smooth bottoms. cases then studied basis two distinct strategies for parameterising friction, namely stress approach canopy drag approach. performance these approaches assessed comparing results measurements cross-shore significant height profile configurations. On this work, recommendations choice parameterisations will be made.