A5072573913- Sports injuries and prevention
- Sports Performance and Training
- Musculoskeletal pain and rehabilitation
- Shoulder Injury and Treatment
- Orthopedic Surgery and Rehabilitation
- Winter Sports Injuries and Performance
- Physical Activity and Health
- Adventure Sports and Sensation Seeking
- Lower Extremity Biomechanics and Pathologies
- Education, Psychology, and Social Research
- Physical Education and Training Studies
Charles University
2014-2015
Massey University
2014
This study aimed to (1) evaluate the effect of hand shaking during recovery phases intermittent testing on time-force characteristics performance and muscle oxygenation, (2) assess inter-individual variability in time achieve target force rock climbers. Twenty-two participants undertook three finger flexor endurance tests at 60% their maximal voluntary contraction until failure. Performances a sustained two contractions, each with different strategies, were analysed by parameters...
Abstract The aim of the study was to assess effects climbing ability and slope inclination on vertical loading both in terms forces involved physiological responses. Five novice six intermediate female climbers completed a route at three inclinations (85°, 90°, 98°). during climb assessed by force-time integral using Novel Pedar-X insole responses via oxygen uptake heart rate. had significantly lower (p < 0.05) foot holds higher rate compared climbers. A significant negative correlation...
The aim of this study was to examine the relationship between submaximal and maximal physiological responses rock climbing for climbers differing abilities.Twenty-six male performed a test on known circuit at 90° (vertical) 105° (15° overhanging) inclination speed 25 movements · min(-1). A undertaken similar same with increasing by 10° each successive 3 min stage.Mean oxygen consumption heart rate (HR) increased wall reached mean (± SD) peak VO2 40.3 ± 3.5 mL kg(-1) min(-1) during test....
AbstractThe aim of the study was to evaluate validity and reliability different arm positions for finger flexor strength measurement in sport climbers. Forty six climbers completed on a climbing specific device with four positions: 1 - handgrip, shoulder flexed at 0°, elbow fully extended; 2 90° externally rotated, (position 90/90); 3 abducted 130°, 50° 130/50), 4 180°, extended 180/0). Intra-session from trials assessed by an intra-class correlation coefficient (ICC). To assess criterion...
The aim of this study was to assess the validity and reliability four climbing grip positions during finger flexor strength measurement using electronic scales in sport contexts. Fifty-five climbers with self-reported abilities RP (redpoint) between V XII– on Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme scale volunteered study. Strength measures were obtained open (OG), crimp (CG), index+middle (IM) finger, middle+ring (MR) a 23 mm wide wood-edge hold. asked stand platform progressively...
The study aimed to assess the physiological demands of indoor wall climbing in children. Twenty-five children (aged 8–12 years) from a school, with performance RP (red point) IV V+ UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) scale (5.4 5.7 YDS [Yosemite Decimal System] and 4a 5a Sport/French scale), participated study. All 25 climbed first vertical route (IV UIAA, 5.4 YDS, Sport/French) 10 went on complete 110° overhanging (IV+ 5.5 4b Sport/French). Both routes were top rope...
Cílem této práce bylo ověřit rozdíly energetické náročnosti lezení u lezců s různou lezeckou výkonností na lehkých a středně obtížných cestách. Jedenáct rozděleno podle aktuální lezecké výkonnosti do třech skupin: začátečníci, rekreační lezci výkonnostní lezci. Při kolmé stěny ve vlastním tempu se spotřeba kyslíku významně lišila mezi začátečníky 27,1 ± 0,9 ml.kg-1.min-1, rekreačními 25,0 2,3 ml.kg-1.min-1 výkonnostními 22,5 1,4 ml.kg-1.min-1. Stejně tomu tak při mírně převislé (110°):...