A5042147558- Sports injuries and prevention
- Musculoskeletal pain and rehabilitation
- Sports Performance and Training
- Shoulder Injury and Treatment
- Orthopedic Surgery and Rehabilitation
- Exercise and Physiological Responses
- Cardiovascular and exercise physiology
- Foot and Ankle Surgery
- Education, Psychology, and Social Research
- Thermoregulation and physiological responses
- Traumatic Brain Injury Research
- Adventure Sports and Sensation Seeking
- Winter Sports Injuries and Performance
- High Altitude and Hypoxia
Charles University
2014-2023
Karlovac University of Applied Sciences
2016
Massey University
2014
An advanced system for the assessment of climbing-specific performance was developed and used to: (a) investigate effect arm fixation (AF) on construct validity evidence reliability finger-strength measurement; (b) assess endurance measurements; (c) evaluate relationship between finger flexor all-out test scores climbing ability.To determine AF, 22 male climbers performed 2 maximal strength tests with AF (shoulder elbow flexed at 90°) without 180° fully extended). To reliability, 9 completed...
To examine the validity and reliability of a battery 10 measures designed to assess key physiological parameters for successful rock climbing performance.In phase 1 research, an expert panel, using Delphi method, established 10-item test based on determinants performance. In 2, tests were assessed their suitability as sport-specific A total 132 climbers, from 7 countries, volunteered take part in study. Each climber visited nearest laboratory 3 separate occasions order enable required...
This study aimed to (1) evaluate the effect of hand shaking during recovery phases intermittent testing on time-force characteristics performance and muscle oxygenation, (2) assess inter-individual variability in time achieve target force rock climbers. Twenty-two participants undertook three finger flexor endurance tests at 60% their maximal voluntary contraction until failure. Performances a sustained two contractions, each with different strategies, were analysed by parameters...
The aim of this study was to examine the relationship between submaximal and maximal physiological responses rock climbing for climbers differing abilities.Twenty-six male performed a test on known circuit at 90° (vertical) 105° (15° overhanging) inclination speed 25 movements · min(-1). A undertaken similar same with increasing by 10° each successive 3 min stage.Mean oxygen consumption heart rate (HR) increased wall reached mean (± SD) peak VO2 40.3 ± 3.5 mL kg(-1) min(-1) during test....
AbstractThe aim of the study was to evaluate validity and reliability different arm positions for finger flexor strength measurement in sport climbers. Forty six climbers completed on a climbing specific device with four positions: 1 - handgrip, shoulder flexed at 0°, elbow fully extended; 2 90° externally rotated, (position 90/90); 3 abducted 130°, 50° 130/50), 4 180°, extended 180/0). Intra-session from trials assessed by an intra-class correlation coefficient (ICC). To assess criterion...
Abstract Baláš, J, Kodejška, Krupková, D, Hannsmann, and Fryer, S. Reliability of near-infrared spectroscopy for measuring intermittent handgrip contractions in sport climbers. J Strength Cond Res 32(2): 494–501, 2018—The use (NIRS) to investigate muscle oxygenation changes during physical tasks such as rock climbing has rapidly increased within recent years; yet, there is no known measure reliability. The current study aimed determine intersession reliability minimal detectable change (MDC)...
The aim of this study was to examine the effect alterations in potential lead fall distance on hormonal responses rock climbers. Nine advanced female climbers completed two routes while clipping all (PRO-all) or half (PRO-½) fixed points protection. Venous blood samples were analysed for total catecholamines, noradrenaline (norepinephrine), adrenaline (epinephrine), dopamine, lactate, cortisol and serotonin. Differences between conditions pre, immediately post 15 min climbing assessed using...
To determine the effect of 2 cold-water-immersion (CWI) temperatures (15°C and 8°C) on repeat handgrip performance to failure.A total 32 participants completed 3 intermittent trials failure a climbing-specific dynamometer laboratory visits. For each visit, different recovery strategy was employed: passive (PAS) recovery, CWI at 8°C (CW8), or 15°C (CW15). The force time integral (FTI: contraction multiplied by contraction) determined assess performance.There no significant difference between...
Background. Bouldering and lead climbing are divergent disciplines of the sport rock climbing. moves short powerful, whilst is longer require a greater degree endurance. Aim. The aim this study was to compare forearm muscle oxygenation during sustained isometric contraction between climbers (LC) boulderers (BO). Methods. Eight BO twelve LC completed maximal finger flexor strength test contractions exhaustion at 60% maximum voluntary (MVC). Differences in strength, time exhaustion, force...
Abstract The purpose of the present study was to assess effect different water immersion temperatures on handgrip performance and haemodynamic changes in forearm flexors males females. Twenty-nine rock-climbers performed three repeated intermittent contractions failure with 20 min recovery separate laboratory visits. For each visit, a randomly assigned strategy applied: cold (CWI) at 8 °C (CW8), 15 (CW15) or passive (PAS). While significantly decreased subsequent trials for PAS ( p <...
Baláš, J, Kodejška, Procházková, A, Knap, R, and Tufano, JJ. Muscle cooling before in the middle of a session: there are benefits on subsequent localized endurance performance warm environment. J Strength Cond Res 38(3): 533-539, 2024-Localized cold-water immersion (CWI) has been shown to facilitate recovery session exhaustive repeated forearm contractions. However, it suggested that these may be attributed "precooling" muscle an activity, as opposed previously overheated muscle. Therefore,...
Aim. The aim of this study was to evaluate relationships between the rock climbing performance and strength finger flexors shoulder girdle muscles in female climbers. Methods. Twenty one climbers completed six specific tests focused on flexor strength: hang, maximal open crimp, bent arm hang arm, two arms, diagonal reach, power slap. Relationship RP (Red point) assessed by a coefficient determination. Linear regression analysis used determine relative contribution tests’ model. Results....