Efficacy of an agonist of α‐MSH, the palmitoyl tetrapeptide‐20, in hair pigmentation

• DOI: 10.1111/ics.12494
• Publication Date: 2018-09-17T14:03:06Z
• Authors: S. Almeida Scalvino; A. Chapelle; N. Hajem; E. Lati; P. Gasser; J‐C. Choulot; L. Michel; M. Hocquaux; E. Loing; J. Attia; J. Wdzieczak‐Bakala
• Keywords: Melanocortin 1 receptor; Ex vivo; Melanocyte; Dermal papillae

Abstract Objective Hair greying (i.e., canities) is a component of chronological ageing and occurs regardless gender or ethnicity. Canities directly linked to the loss melanin increase in oxidative stress hair follicle shaft. To promote pigmentation reduce process, an agonist α ‐melanocyte‐stimulating hormone ( ‐ MSH ), biomimetic peptide (palmitoyl tetrapeptide‐20; PTP 20) was developed. The aim this study describe effects designed on greying. Methods Effect 20 enzymatic activity catalase production H 2 O by Human Follicle Dermal Papilla Cells HFDPC ) evaluated. Influence expression melanocortin receptor‐1 MC 1‐R) were investigated. Enzymatic sirtuin 1 SIRT 1) after treatment with also determined. Ex vivo studies using human micro‐dissected hairs allowed visualize effect catalase, TRP ‐1, ‐2, Melan‐A, ASIP , 1‐R. These investigations completed clinical 15 male volunteers suffering from premature canities. Results vitro ex revealed capacity examined enhance decrease (30%) intracellular level . Moreover, shown activate melanogenesis process. In fact, be correlated elevated 1‐R, reduction expression. A modulation ‐2 observed. pivotal role 1‐R confirmed protein analysed volunteer's plucked 3 months daily application lotion containing 10 ppm peptide. Conclusion current findings demonstrate ability preserve function follicular melanocytes. present results suggest potential cosmetic newly thus,