Arnica montana L. extract containing 6‐O‐methacryloylhelenalin and 6‐O‐isobutyrylhelenalin accelerates growth and differentiation of human subcutaneous preadipocytes and leads volumizing of skin

• DOI: 10.1111/ics.12815
• Publication Date: 2022-08-19T15:50:01Z
• Authors: Kotaro Sakamoto; Chiharu Watanabe; Teruaki Masutani; Asuka Hirasawa; Kanae Wakamatsu; Arunasiri Iddamal...; Yuya Kakumu; Kosei Yamauchi; Tohru Mitsunaga
• Keywords: 0301 basic medicine; 03 medical and health sciences; Adipose Tissue; Plant Extracts; Adipocytes; Humans; Cell Differentiation; Arnica; Skin

AbstractObjectiveAn important factor in the aging of the face is a reduction in the volume of adipose tissue. This reduction in adipose tissue contributes to decreased skin elasticity, which is also part of the aging process. Overall, these lead to wrinkle formation. Fat injection is a common means of addressing this issue and is used to reduce the effects of aging on the face and to increase the fullness of the lips and breasts. However, fat injection is an invasive surgical procedure. This study aimed to discover novel cosmetic ingredients that increase the volume of subcutaneous (pre)adipocytes to create the appearance of more youthful skin.MethodsWe focused on the number of subcutaneous preadipocytes and the accumulation of lipid droplets. To discover natural ingredients that increase both of these, extracts of 380 natural products were prepared and screened for their effects on both growth and differentiation (i.e., lipid droplet accumulation) of human subcutaneous preadipocytes. One extract was found to have the desired effects, and this was further studied to determine the active compounds. We then evaluated its efficacy in a human clinical study.ResultsWe found that Arnica montana L. flower extract (AFE) accelerates both the growth and the differentiation of human subcutaneous preadipocytes. AFE was found to significantly increase the volume of adipocyte spheroids. The active compounds 6‐O‐methacryloylhelenalin and 6‐O‐isobutyrylhelenalin were found to be responsible for the effects of AFE on preadipocytes. In a human clinical study, gels containing 1% AFE successfully enhanced the volume of the lips and face with reduction of wrinkles with no adverse reactions.ConclusionThis is the first report to demonstrate that AFE and the included compounds, 6‐O‐methacryloylhelenalin and 6‐O‐isobutyrylhelenalin, act on preadipocytes. AFE would be ideal for use in products that plump the face to reduce wrinkles and create a more youthful appearance.