On Kurtosis and Occurrence Probability of Freak Waves

• DOI: 10.1175/jpo2922.1
• Publication Date: 2006-08-23T19:05:26Z
• Authors: Nobuhito Mori; Peter A. E. M. Ja...
• Keywords: 01 natural sciences; 0105 earth and related environmental sciences

AbstractBased on a weakly non-Gaussian theory, the occurrence probability of freak waves is formulated in terms of the number of waves in a time series and the surface elevation kurtosis. Finite kurtosis gives rise to a significant enhancement of freak wave generation in comparison with the linear narrowbanded wave theory. For a fixed number of waves, the estimated amplification ratio of freak wave occurrence due to the deviation from the Gaussian theory is 50%–300%. The results of the theory are compared with laboratory and field data.