A5051353465- Coastal and Marine Dynamics
- Tropical and Extratropical Cyclones Research
- Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
- Coastal wetland ecosystem dynamics
- Aeolian processes and effects
- Coastal and Marine Management
- Geological formations and processes
- Oceanographic and Atmospheric Processes
- Geophysics and Gravity Measurements
- Flood Risk Assessment and Management
- Remote Sensing and LiDAR Applications
- Methane Hydrates and Related Phenomena
- Infrastructure Resilience and Vulnerability Analysis
- 3D Modeling in Geospatial Applications
- Geological and Geophysical Studies
- Island Studies and Pacific Affairs
- Marine and environmental studies
- Marine and Offshore Engineering Studies
- Soil erosion and sediment transport
- Geology and Paleoclimatology Research
- Fluid Dynamics Simulations and Interactions
- Wave and Wind Energy Systems
- Climate Change, Adaptation, Migration
- Pharmacy and Medical Practices
- Marine and fisheries research
Laboratoire d'Hydraulique Saint-Venant
2015-2024
Centre d'Études et d'Expertise sur les Risques, l'Environnement, la Mobilité et l'Aménagement
2015-2024
École nationale des ponts et chaussées
2023-2024
University of East Anglia
2024
Norfolk and Norwich University Hospital
2024
Électricité de France (France)
2023
European Commission
2022
Paris-Est Sup
2016-2020
Bureau de Recherches Géologiques et Minières
2010-2014
Université Paris Cité
2014
Shoreline location and incident wave energy, observed for almost 5 years at Torrey Pines beach, show seasonal fluctuations characteristic of southern California beaches. The shoreline location, defined as the cross‐shore position mean sea level contour, retreats by 40 m in response to energetic winter waves gradually recovers during low‐energy summer waves. Hourly estimates energy weekly monthly surveys are used develop calibrate an equilibrium‐type change model. By hypothesis, rate depends...
While global sea level has risen by 20 cm since the mid-19th century, role of this process in present-day and past shoreline mobility is still debated. In paper, we review previous studies that explored relations between sea-level rise changes over last few decades. Existing methods can be classified into two groups: (1) approaches based on analysis trends variability change observations, which investigate whether a correlation with temporal or spatial patterns established; (2) comparison...
[1] Four years of beach elevation surveys at Ocean Beach, San Francisco, California, are used to extend an existing equilibrium shoreline change model, previously calibrated with fine sand and moderate energy waves, medium higher-energy waves. The shoreline, characterized as the cross-shore location mean high water contour, varied seasonally by between 30 60 m, depending on alongshore location. model relates rate horizontal displacement hourly wave E disequilibrium, difference that would...
Abstract. Assessing coastal vulnerability to climate change at regional scales is now mandatory in France since the adoption of recent laws support adaptation change. However, there presently no commonly recognised method assess accurately how sea level rise will modify processes coming decades. Therefore, many assessments physical component are based on a combined use data (e.g. digital elevation models, historical shoreline and geomorphology datasets), simple models expert opinion. In this...
Yates, M.L.; Le Cozannet, G.; Garcin, M.; Salai, E., and Walker, P., 2013. Multidecadal atoll shoreline change on Manihi Manuae, French Polynesia.As interest in the impact of sea-level rise islands increases, this study contributes to growing database observations changes South Pacific Islands, where few are currently available. Historical aerial photographs recent satellite images were used evaluate multidecadal surface area two atolls Polynesia: Manuae. During 40- 50-year period, island...
Abstract An equilibrium framework is used to describe the evolution of cross‐shore profile five beaches (medium grain size sand) in southern California. Elevations were observed quarterly on transects extending from back beach 8 m depth, for 3–10 years. Transects spaced 100 alongshore direction are averaged into nineteen 700–900 long sections. Consistent with previous observations, changes about time average many sections captured by first mode empirical orthogonal function (EOF). The EOF...
Summary The accuracy and efficiency of two methods resolving the exact potential flow problem for nonlinear waves are compared using three different one horizontal dimension (1DH) test cases. model approaches use high‐order finite difference schemes in differ resolution vertical dimension. first uses also vertical, while second applies a spectral approach. convergence, accuracy, models demonstrated as function temporal, horizontal, resolutions following: (1) propagation regular periodic...
Abstract. The coastal zone is a complex environment in which variety of forcing factors interact causing shoreline evolution. Coastal managers seek to predict evolution and identify regions vulnerable erosion. Here, Bayesian network developed the primary influencing decadal-scale European coasts reproduce observed trends. Sensitivity tests demonstrate robustness model, showing higher predictive capabilities for stable than eroding coasts. Finally, study highlights need update expand...
Coastlines are subject to multiple developments related land use planning and the effects of climate change. These generally lead an increase in risk coastal flooding. This article focuses on systems protect against this hazard, presents a bibliographical analysis methods operational tools strengthen their resilience. is carried out by considering that system protection component territory which it provides therefore necessary study depth relations between various components (the natural...
Le Cozannet, G., Garcin, M., Petitjean, L., Cazenave, A., Becker, Meyssignac, B., Walker, P., Devilliers, C., Brun, O., , Lecacheux, S., Baills, Bulteau, T. Yates, and Wöppelmann, 2013. Exploring the relation between sea level rise shoreline erosion using reconstructions: an example in French Polynesia.The climate component of variation displays significant spatial variability, it is now possible to reconstruct how varied globally regionally over past half century. The fact that rose faster...
Abstract Understanding the interactions between dune systems and beaches is critical to determining short‐term shoreline response long‐term resilience. In this study, almost 15 years of monthly beach/dune measurements were analyzed for three different profiles at Vougot Beach, France understand predict changes from intra‐annual multi‐annual time‐scales. Four migration modes: advance/retreat (translation modes) steepening/flattening (rotation identified through a centroid analysis. The analysis...