A5047864512- Coastal and Marine Dynamics
- Coastal wetland ecosystem dynamics
- Tropical and Extratropical Cyclones Research
- Aeolian processes and effects
- Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
- Oceanographic and Atmospheric Processes
- Geological formations and processes
- Flood Risk Assessment and Management
- Wave and Wind Energy Systems
- Marine and environmental studies
- Marine and coastal plant biology
- Coastal and Marine Management
- Aquatic and Environmental Studies
- Wind Energy Research and Development
- Marine and fisheries research
- Earthquake and Tsunami Effects
- Geology and Paleoclimatology Research
- Underwater Acoustics Research
- Fluid Dynamics Simulations and Interactions
- Lattice Boltzmann Simulation Studies
- Hydrology and Watershed Management Studies
- Hydraulic flow and structures
- Computational Physics and Python Applications
- Cryospheric studies and observations
- Winter Sports Injuries and Performance
Swansea University
2015-2024
University of Twente
2023
Energy Safety Research Institute
2018
University of Glasgow
2009-2013
University of Plymouth
2005-2009
University of Moratuwa
2002-2003
Saitama University
1995-1996
Vegetation can contribute to coastal defence by damping incoming waves. However, prior studies have shown that attenuation varies greatly among plant species. Plant flexibility is a mechanical property commonly omitted, but considerably between shrubs and grasses on salt marshes. Therefore, we present an experimental study in laboratory wave flume with artificial vegetation differs only. We measured water particle velocities around rigid flexible marsh vegetation. Waves were using series of...
Impacts of storm clustering on beach/dune morphodynamics were investigated by applying the state-of-the-art numerical model XBeach to Formby Point (Sefton coast, UK). The adopted cluster was established analysing observed winter storms from December 2013 January 2014 using a threshold wave height. first that occurred during this period is regarded as exceptionally intense, and occurrence such events very unusual. A 1D setup for highly dynamic cross-shore at Point. After initial calibration...
Better understanding of the global wave climate is required to inform energy device design and large-scale deployment. Spatial variability in analysed here provide a range characteristic climates. K-means clustering was used split resource into 6 classes agnostic, data-driven method using data from ECMWF ERA5 reanalysis product. Classification two sets input were considered: simple set (based on significant height peak period) comprehensive including wide relevant parameters. Both...
This paper presents a methodology for modelling medium term (annual to decadal) cross shore beach profile change and erosion. The statistical-process based approach (SPA) presented here combines detailed statistical of offshore storm climate with process morphodynamic model (XBeach), assess, quantify variability profiles. Until now, the use models has been limited simulations at event timescales. therefore represents first application fully in longer simulations, as such, requires simulation...
This contribution investigates the impact of deployment tidal stream turbine arrays on sediment dynamics and seabed morphology in Pentland Firth, Scotland. The Firth is arguably premier site world engineering developments are progressing rapidly. Therefore understanding minimising impacts vital to ensure successful development this nascent industry. Here a 3 dimensional coupled hydrodynamic transport numerical model used investigate morphodynamics arrays. aim work presented here twofold:...
Coastal vegetation such as seagrass fields, salt marshes, and mangroves, contributes to coastal defence by damping incoming waves. Yet, plant species differ in flexibility due which they interact differently with waves damp a variable degree. Current wave models struggle balance accuracy against computational costs when accounting for wave-vegetation interactions. Instead, often rely on plant-specific calibration of the drag coefficient, limits their application across species. Here we show,...
Abstract As storm-driven coastal flooding increases under climate change, wetlands such as saltmarshes are held a nature-based solution. Yet evidence supporting wetlands’ storm protection role in estuaries—where both waves and upstream surge drive flooding—remains scarce. Here we address this gap using numerical hydrodynamic models within eight contextually diverse estuaries, simulating storms of varying intensity coupling flood predictions to damage valuation. Saltmarshes reduced across all...
Abstract The paper investigates compound flooding from waves, sea surge and river flow in northern Jakarta, Indonesia, which is a global hotspot of flooding, by combining process-based coastal models. hydrodynamic modelling Jakarta Bay Indonesia shows that storms can lead to substantial increase water level due wind wave setup the nearshore areas, including Muara Angke inlet. flood hazard range scenarios was simulated analysed. results reveal low-lying areas around inlet are prone even...
To fully understand the performance of tidal stream turbines for development ocean renewable energy, a range computational models is required. We review and compare results from several horizontal axis at different spatial scales. Models under include blade element momentum theory (BEMT), actuator disk, Reynolds averaged Navier Stokes (RANS) CFD (BEM-CFD), blade-resolved moving reference frame coastal based on shallow water equations. evaluate BEMT, comparison made to experiments with three...
This paper reviews and discusses the current research status, trends, future needs in field of beach morphodynamics under influence storm sequences. The how three main methods, investigations, numerical modelling, physical have been used to study during Available quantitative definitions sequences at different sites are presented discussed. It is shown that definition site-specific requires knowledge climate, characteristics, temporal scale recovery. Subsequently, brings together currently...
It is now common for coastal planning to anticipate changes anywhere from 70 100 years into the future. The process models developed and used scheme design or large-scale oceanography are currently inadequate this task. This has prompted development of a plethora alternative methods. Some, such as reduced complexity hybrid simplify governing equations retaining processes that considered govern observed morphological behaviour. computational cost these low they have proven effective in...
Abstract. Impacts of storm chronology within a cluster on beach/dune erosion are investigated by applying the state-of-the-art numerical model XBeach to Sefton coast, northwest England. Six temporal clusters different chronologies were formulated using three storms observed during 2013/2014 winter. The power values these events nearly halve from first second event and third event. Cross-shore profile evolution was simulated in response tide, surge wave forcing storms. calibrated against...
Supraglacial lake drainage events are common on the Greenland ice sheet. Observations west coast typically show an up-glacier progression of as annual melt extent spreads inland. We use a suite remote sensing and modeling techniques in order to study series lakes water-filled crevasses within 20 km terminus Helheim Glacier, southeast Greenland. Automatic classification surface water areas shows down-glacier drainage, which occurs majority years between 2007 2014. demonstrate that linear...
Medium/long term trends (annual to decadal scale) of beach change are mostly used make coastal management decisions. However, short term, extreme episodic events (short term) can erode the exceed sustainable erosion thresholds thereby impacting long change. Therefore, understanding at and medium-long (years decades) timescales is essential provide solutions erosion. In this paper, we investigate simulate a beach-dune system for megatidal coastline in UK storm timescale corresponding sea...
Beach profile evolution under storm sequence forcing presents an emerging research topic that has only been investigated at a limited number of sites. The occurrence and effects sequencing on beach are studied Hasaki Beach, Japan, using weekly two-hourly offshore wave measurements. During the 25-year study period, supratidal is subjected to long-term accretion steepening while shoreline shows oscillation. In addition, oscillations volume semi-annual annual intervals identified, which largely...
UK coasts are subject to widespread erosion in part due the cumulative effect of human intervention on soft coastlines, and further threatened more rapid change climate change, especially sea-level rise. At same time, Shoreline Management now requires predictions coastal evolution up 100 years future. This leads challenge predicting geomorphic behaviour at mesoscale (10 km 10 years). Currently, this is often based expert judgement. However, relevant components for simulation emerging,...