The assimilation and prediction of phase-resolved surface gravity waves are critical challenges in ocean science engineering. Potential flow theory (PFT) has been widely employed to develop wave models numerical techniques for prediction. However, traditional methods often limited. For example, most simplified have a limited ability capture strong nonlinearity, while fully nonlinear PFT solvers fail meet the speed requirements engineering applications. This computational inefficiency also...

An experimental investigation of two-dimensional dispersively focused laboratory breaking waves is presented. We describe the bandwidth effect on wave energetics, including spectral energy evolution, characteristic group velocity, dissipation and its rate, strength parameter, $b$ . To evaluate role bandwidth, three definitions steepness are adopted where $S_s$ $S_n$ bandwidth-dependent $S_p$ remains constant when changed. Our data show two regimes evolution in groups, with both...

Abstract The propagation of bichromatic wave groups over a constant 1:100 beach slope and the influence group modulation is presented. controlled by varying frequency, f g , which shown to remarkably affect energy transfer high low frequency components. growth (hf) skewness increases when decreases. This explained nonlinear coupling between primary frequencies, results in larger hf components as decreases, causing waves break earlier. Due spatial resolution, tracking has provided an accurate...

Abstract The propagation of bichromatic wave groups with differences in the wave‐group structure and its influence long‐wave generation are investigated. is controlled by number ( N g ) within a repetition period. Consequently, an important energy content measured at lower frequencies than group frequency f , particular, r . cross‐shore evolution partly explained nonlinear transfers from primary breakpoint forcing. When increases, transfer to during shoaling reduces. ≥3, amplitude suddenly...

In experimental campaigns investigating space-time varying signals, e.g., evolving wave fields, it is common for the spatial resolution not to be as high desired properly capture variability of propagating water waves. This often due unavoidable experimental, technical, and cost constraints. To overcome this limitation, we present a relatively simple procedure (called S-interp) interpolate fields at locations where no measurements are available. S-interp consists interpolation along points...

The present numerical study builds on Ekman (1905)'s work in surface boundary layer and extends the value problem to overcome some of its limitations. Previous studies addressed model's limitations by assuming that deviations from observations are usually ascribed different eddy viscosity shapes, but seldom presence baroclinic pressure gradients shallow seas, which mainstays this work. Improved solutions ocean obtained considering both depth-dependent wind-induced horizontal density...

Bar and berm morphology characterize the seasonal beach evolution, determine protection against storm erosion as well touristic use of beaches. Thus, they are particular interest for coastal management engineering in nearshore zone. This study used large-scale wave flume experiments to observe transition from fully dissipative reflective profile at a high level detail. Starting post-storm generated under energetic waves, very low energy condition caused dissipation outer inner bar, shoreline...

This work presents a first analysis of experimental data studying the influence frequency bandwidth on propagation bichromatic wave groups over constant 1:100 beach slope. The use large spatial cross-shore resolution and Bi-Spectral techniques allows identification nonlinear energy transfers along groups. During wave-group shoaling, coupling between primary frequencies results in larger growth superharmonics for narrow-banded conditions, increasing skewness leading to eventual instabilities...

Free-wave contamination is a non-desirable but frequent characteristic in many wave tank experiments. Higher-order generation not widely implemented yet, whereas the effectiveness of active absorption systems frequency-dependent, and usually unknown. The resulting free-wave remains unnoticed, may have important consequences especially at low frequencies. We present Generation–Separation–Compensation (GSC) procedure to identify, quantify attenuate contamination. field behaves as expected from...

Wind-driven flow in power-law viscous fluids homogeneous semienclosed basins is analyzed. Analytical solutions for vertical current profiles non-newtonian with different indexes are derived assuming a wind shear stress at the surface and zero net transport. Previous classical wind-driven flows thus generalized. A bidirectional fluid column obtained: downwind near weaker compensating upwind bottom. Shear-thickening exhibit larger maximum currents surface, although reducing difference between...

A relatively high spatial resolution is often desirable when capturing the variability of evolving wave fields. Some these situations where a needed may be, for example, studing shape evolution breaking waves, or directional distribution energy wind-wave spectra, computing frequency-wavenumber spectra critically needed. In both cases, an ideal space-time representation field one whose and time resolutions are enough (∆x ∆t being very small), to some extend, comparable in...

The classical Ekman (1905)'s theory of wind-driven currents at the surface boundary layer is a well-known mathematical model that describes transport phenomena in coastal processes, (e.g.) upwellings and downwellings, represents an essential part modern oceanography. Understanding important to quantify deviations observed magnitudes from behavior. In this theoretical work, revisited through Noether's theorem. This theorem plays central role physics Lie group showing direct connection between...

This study further explores the relationships between suspended sediment concentration (SSC) and phytoplankton (PC) in tidally-energetic estuaries. A 1DV idealized model is implemented to account for vertical advection of sediments, their resuspension from bottom by both tidal wind shear stresses, mixing processes, light-induced growth phytoplankton. Phytoplankton are considered be comprised free (pelagic) microphytobenthos (MPB). The combined wind-tide stress modelled following work...

In 1926 Albert Einstein gave a clear explanation of the physical processes involved in meander formation and evolution open channels (Einstein, 1926). Although this work is far from being recognized as one his greatest achievements, such annus mirabilis papers 1905, he shows truly remarkable didactic skills that make it easy to understand even non-specialist. particular, brilliant tea leaf paradox can be found paper 1926, presented simple experiment for clarifying role Earth rotation flow...