A5017222868- Coastal and Marine Dynamics
- Aeolian processes and effects
- Coastal wetland ecosystem dynamics
- Geology and Paleoclimatology Research
- Tropical and Extratropical Cyclones Research
- Soil erosion and sediment transport
- Geological formations and processes
- Earthquake Detection and Analysis
- Geological and Geophysical Studies
- Seismology and Earthquake Studies
- Atmospheric and Environmental Gas Dynamics
- Remote Sensing and LiDAR Applications
- Cryospheric studies and observations
- Oceanographic and Atmospheric Processes
- Marine and coastal plant biology
- Tree Root and Stability Studies
- Climate change and permafrost
- Geological Modeling and Analysis
- Coastal and Marine Management
- Turtle Biology and Conservation
- Underwater Acoustics Research
- Landslides and related hazards
- Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
- Meteorological Phenomena and Simulations
- Flood Risk Assessment and Management
United States Army
2019-2025
U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center
2019-2025
United States Army Corps of Engineers
2019-2024
Delta Air Lines (United States)
2022-2023
TomTom (Netherlands)
2020
Oregon State University
2014-2019
Abstract The El Niño-Southern Oscillation is the dominant mode of interannual climate variability across Pacific Ocean basin, with influence on global climate. two end members cycle, Niño and La Niña, force anomalous oceanographic conditions coastal response along margin, exposing many heavily populated regions to increased flooding erosion hazards. However, a quantitative record impacts spatially limited temporally restricted only most recent events. Here we report forcing 2015–2016 Niño,...
Coastal landscape change represents aggregated sediment transport gradients from spatially and temporally variable marine aeolian forces. Numerous tools exist that independently simulate subaqueous subaerial coastal profile in response to these physical forces on a range of time scales. In this capacity, foredunes have been treated primarily as wind-driven features. However, there are several controls foredune growth, such supply moisture effects processes. To improve understanding...
Abstract Coastal foredune growth is typically associated with aeolian sediment transport processes, while erosion destructive marine processes. New data sets collected at a high energy, dissipative beach suggest that total water levels in the collision regime can cause dunes to accrete—requiring paradigm shift away from considering collisional wave impacts as unconditionally erosional. From morphologic change sets, it estimated processes explain between 9% and 38% of annual dune accounting...
Coastal dunes arise from feedbacks between vegetation and sediment supply. Species-specific differences in plant functional morphology affect sand capture dune shape. In this study, we build on research showing a relationship grass species geomorphology the US central Atlantic Coast. This study seeks to determine ways which four co-occurring (Ammophila breviligulata, Panicum amarum, Spartina patens, Uniola paniculata) differ their accretion. We surveyed biogeography, morphology, associated...
The formation and evolution of coastal dunes result from a complex interplay eco-morphodynamic processes. State-of-the-art models can simulate aeolian transports morphological dune under certain conditions. However, model combining these processes for engineering applications was not yet available. This study aims to develop predictive tool development inform management decisions interventions. sediment transport AeoLiS is extended with functionalities that allow simulations landforms. added...
Abstract. Existing process-based models for simulating coastal foredune evolution largely use the same analytical approach estimating wind-induced surface shear stress distributions over spatially variable topography. Originally developed smooth, low-sloping hills, these face significant limitations when topography of interest exhibits large height-to-length ratios and/or steep, localized features. In this work, we utilize computational fluid dynamics (CFD) to examine error trends a commonly...
Abstract Beach groundwater and nearshore hydrodynamic data were collected during a field experiment along two dissipative beach transects on Galveston Island, Texas, in the fall of 2023. The monitored beaches serve as nesting habitat for critically endangered Kemp’s ridley sea turtle. Conditions ranged from calm to stormy, with storms occurring experiment, inundating entire up dune toe. Collected include readings pressure loggers submerged foreshore mounted wells backshore, wave buoys about...
Abstract Managing multiple ecosystem services ( ES s) across landscapes presents a central challenge for ecosystem‐based management, because often exhibit spatiotemporal variation and weak associations with co‐occurring s. Further focus on the mechanistic relationships among s their underlying biophysical processes provides greater insight into causes of covariation s, thus serving as guide to enhance supply while preventing adverse outcomes. Here, we used U.S. Pacific Northwest coastal dune...
Coastal foredunes are topographically high features that can reduce vulnerability to storm-related flooding hazards. While the dominant aeolian, hydrodynamic, and ecological processes leading dune growth erosion fairly well-understood, predictive capabilities of spatial variations in evolution on management engineering timescales (days years) remain relatively poor. In this work, monthly high-resolution terrestrial lidar scans were used quantify topographic vegetation changes over a 2.5 year...
A large, low pressure Nor'easter storm and Hurricane Joaquin contributed to multiple weeks of sustained, elevated wave water level conditions along the southeastern Atlantic coast United States in Fall 2015. Sea anomalies excess 1 m offshore heights up 4 were recorded during these storms, as observed at U.S. Army Corps Engineers' Field Research Facility Duck, NC, USA. In response energetic oceanographic conditions, there highly variable morphologic changes dune over short spatial scales...
Quantitative predictions of marine and aeolian sediment transport in the nearshore-beach-dune system are important for designing Nature-Based Solutions (NBS) coastal environments. To quantify impact marine-aeolian interactions on shaping NBS, we present a framework coupling three existing process-based models: Delft3D Flexible Mesh, SWAN AeoLiS. This facilitates continuous exchange bed levels, water levels wave properties between numerical models focussing domain. The coupled model is used...
Coastal communities are increasingly constructing artificial dunes and/or encouraging dune growth for added protection against storm surge. However, the morphological response of foredunes to impacts varies greatly, even over short spatial scales. This may in part reflect anthropogenic influences on ecomorphostratigraphy. While role beach and management is recognized altering sediment supply to, shape of, foredunes, management-dependent effects internal architecture poorly constrained. Here,...
Coastal communities commonly rely upon foredunes as the first line of defense against sea-level rise and storms, thus requiring management guidance to optimize their protective services. Here, we use AeoLiS model simulate wind-driven accretion wave-driven erosion patterns on with different morphologies ecological properties under modern-day conditions. Additional sets runs mimic potential future climate changes inform how both morphological may have differing contributions net dune evolving...
Timeseries observations of beach elevation change and wave runup from a tower-mounted stationary lidar are used to assess the skill (skill=1−NMSE, where NMSE is normalized mean square error) 2% exceedence (R2%) estimates (Stockdon et al., 2006) during four storm events at Duck, NC, USA. The parameterization requires specification foreshore slope, however slope generally unknown high energy events, pre-storm often as proxy. R2% hindcasts computed using observed time-varying static profile....
Process-based nearshore morphodynamic models are commonly used tools by coastal engineers and planners to predict the morphology change of sandy beaches across various spatiotemporal scales. Accurate modeling morphological response on medium long time scales is imperative for quantitative assessments infrastructure over a project's intended life-span. However, most previous applications have focused single/sub-seasonal storm events often limited an assessment subaerial beach (i.e. berm...
Conlin, M.; Cohn, N., and Ruggiero, P., 2018. A quantitative comparison of low-cost Structure from Motion (SfM) data collection platforms on beaches dunes.Observations beach dune geomorphology are critical for characterizing coastal processes hazards. relatively new approach monitoring the coastline is photogrammetry (SfM), a technique that uses overlapping photographs to reconstruct three-dimensional surfaces. In this study, multiple kite-, pole-, unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV)–based SfM...
Complex two-dimensional nearshore current patterns are generated by feedbacks between sub-aqueous morphology and momentum imparted on the water column breaking waves, winds, tides. These non-stationary features, such as rip currents circulation cells, respond to changing environmental conditions underlying morphology. However, using fixed instruments observe is limiting due high costs logistics necessary achieve adequate spatial sampling resolution. A new technique for processing surf-zone...
Abstract Classifying images using supervised machine learning (ML) relies on labeled training data—classes or text descriptions, for example, associated with each image. Data‐driven models are only as good the data used training, and this points to importance of high‐quality developing a ML model that has predictive skill. Labeling is typically time‐consuming, manual process. Here, we investigate process labeling data, specific focus coastal aerial imagery captured in wake hurricanes...
Abstract In sandy beach systems, the aeolian sediment transport can be governed by vertical structure of layers at bed surface. Here, data collected with a newly developed sand scraper is presented to determine high‐resolution grain size variability and how it affected marine processes. Sediment samples up 2 mm resolution down 50 depth were three beaches: Waldport (Oregon, USA), Noordwijk (the Netherlands) Duck (North Carolina, USA). The results revealed that in individual differ...
This study examines the trajectory (slope) of coastal foredune toe retreat in response to nine storm events that impacted Outer Banks, North Carolina, USA. High resolution, three-dimensional, repeat mobile terrestrial lidar observations over a four kilometer stretch coast were used assess spatiotemporal beach and dune evolution at timescale. Consistent with existing field from other sandy coastlines, an upward was observed for most instances Banks. However, these new topographic data...
Sediment grain size is a critical parameter for sediment mobilization and transport, but often has the highest uncertainty of any coastal transport model input parameter. SandSnap an initiative to engage public amass beach database by taking photos sand with coin in image scale uploading web application. Images are analyzed two deep learning convolutional neural networks one detect second measure size, which trained on samples within regime. The results nine gradation metrics returned user 2...