Describing the structural complexity of seabeds is primary importance for a number geomorphological, hydrodynamical and ecological issues. Aiming to bring decisive insight on long-term development unified view, present study reports comparative multi-site analysis high resolution topography surveys in rough nearshore environments. The nine sites have been selected cover wide variety topographical features, including rocky coral seabeds. data has processed separate roughness...

Abstract. The Bay of Bengal is a well-known breeding ground to some the deadliest cyclones in history. Despite recent advancements, complex morphology and hydrodynamics this large delta associated modelling complexity impede accurate storm surge forecasting highly vulnerable region. Here we present proof concept physically consistent computationally efficient system tractable real time with limited resources. With state-of-the-art wave-coupled hydrodynamic numerical system, forecast...

Abstract While wave processes on shore platforms have been recently advanced by a number of field‐based studies, few attention has paid to the role bed roughness dissipation and setup dynamics in these environments. This study reports new field experiment conducted under storm conditions gently sloping platform which was instrumented from 10 m water depth up shoreline. Data analyses are complemented with numerical simulations performed 3D fully coupled modeling system using vortex force...

Abstract This study explores the spatial distribution and driving mechanisms of wave‐induced cross‐shore flow within shoreface surf zone a dissipative beach. Unpublished results from field campaign carried out in early 2021 under storm wave conditions are presented compared with predictions state‐of‐the‐art phase‐averaged three‐dimensional circulation modeling system based on vortex force formalism. Under conditions, is dominated by strong seaward‐directed current lower part water column....

Pezerat, M.; Martins, K., and Bertin, X., 2020. Modelling storm waves in the nearshore area using spectral models. In: Malvárez, G. Navas, F. (eds.), Global Coastal Issues of Journal Research, Special Issue No. 95, pp. 1240-1244. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.This paper presents field observations collected 2010 shoreface Oléron Island (France) under wave conditions combined with predictions from state-of-the-art model WWM-III to evaluate three classical formulations for...

Lavaud, L.; Pezerat M.; Coulombier, T.; Bertin, X., and Martins, K., 2020. Hydrodynamics on a rocky shore under moderate-energy wave conditions. In: Malvárez, G. Navas, F. (eds.), Global Coastal Issues of Journal Research, Special Issue No. 95, pp. 1473-1479. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.Wave hydrodynamics platforms can be different from that sandy beaches, namely due to higher bed roughness. This study investigates short infragravity waves transformation A-type platform Seven...

Abstract. The Bay of Bengal is a well-known breeding ground to some the deadliest cyclones in history. Despite recent advancements, complex morphology and hydrodynamics this large delta associated modelling computational costs impede storm surge forecasting highly vulnerable region. Here we present proof concept physically consistent computationally efficient system tractable real-time with limited resources. With state-of-the-art wave-coupled hydrodynamic numerical system, forecast super...

Abstract. The Action Program for Flood Prevention of Saint-Malo, France, requires the assessment coastal flooding risks and development a local warning system. first prerequisite is knowledge topography bathymetry bay Saint-Malo; acquisition new multibeam bathymetric data was performed in 2018 2019 to densify existing topo-bathymetric datasets produce two high resolution (20 m 5 m) digital terrain models. Second, hydrodynamics associated with were investigated through dense extensive...

Abstract. The French Flooding Prevention Action Program of Saint-Malo, France, requires the assessment coastal flooding risks and development a local flood warning system. first prerequisite is knowledge topography bathymetry bay Saint-Malo; acquisition new multibeam bathymetric data was performed in 2018 2019 to increase resolution existing topo-bathymetric datasets produce two high-resolution (20 5 m) digital terrain models. Second, hydrodynamics associated with were investigated through...

Abstract The driving mechanisms of sediment transport across the upper shoreface have been poorly examined to date because scarcity field measurements beyond intertidal area, which is mainly due instrumentation difficulties. Here, we investigate cross‐shore suspended from synchronized time series bottom pressure, current velocity and concentration measured by 13 m water depth, in a macro‐tidal low‐sloping shoreface, under storm waves fair weather conditions. Depending on tidal phase incoming...

Les zones littorales abritent une part croissante de la population mondiale en dépit l'augmentation des risques littoraux dans un contexte changement climatique.Cependant, l'hydrodynamique présence vagues tempête reste encore mal connue, principalement du fait rareté observations in situ lors évènements extrêmes.Dans cette étude, nous présentons campagne mesure réalisée au niveau d'une plage dissipative située sud-ouest l'Ile d'Oléron tempête.L'analyse ces données et l'application d'un...

The present study reports on a comparative multi-site analysis of high resolution topography surveys in rough nearshore environments. nine sites have been selected to cover wide variety topographical features, including rocky and coral seabeds. data has processed separate roughness bathymetry-related terrain allowing perform comprehensive spectral statistical each site. A series metrics tested identify the most relevant estimators bottom at highlights systematic presence selfaffine range...

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