A5015105770- Coastal and Marine Dynamics
- Aeolian processes and effects
- Coastal wetland ecosystem dynamics
- Geological formations and processes
- Oceanographic and Atmospheric Processes
- Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
- Underwater Acoustics Research
- Tropical and Extratropical Cyclones Research
- Seismic Waves and Analysis
- Fluid Dynamics Simulations and Interactions
- Marine and environmental studies
- Geological and Geophysical Studies
- Advanced Fiber Optic Sensors
- Geology and Paleoclimatology Research
- Marine and coastal plant biology
- earthquake and tectonic studies
- Soil erosion and sediment transport
- Seismic Imaging and Inversion Techniques
- Marine and coastal ecosystems
- Groundwater and Isotope Geochemistry
- Methane Hydrates and Related Phenomena
- Hydrology and Sediment Transport Processes
- Coral and Marine Ecosystems Studies
- French Urban and Social Studies
- Maritime and Coastal Archaeology
Centre de Recherche et d’Enseignement de Géosciences de l’Environnement
2014-2024
Aix-Marseille Université
2012-2024
Institut de Recherche pour le Développement
2014-2024
Université de Pau et des Pays de l'Adour
2024
Université de Montpellier
2014-2024
Institut National de Recherche pour l'Agriculture, l'Alimentation et l'Environnement
2021-2024
Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique
2012-2024
Sustainable Europe Research Institute
2009-2023
Géosciences Montpellier
2012-2023
Collège de France
2018-2020
Describing the structural complexity of seabeds is primary importance for a number geomorphological, hydrodynamical and ecological issues. Aiming to bring decisive insight on long-term development unified view, present study reports comparative multi-site analysis high resolution topography surveys in rough nearshore environments. The nine sites have been selected cover wide variety topographical features, including rocky coral seabeds. data has processed separate roughness...
The sixth report published in March 2023, from the IPCC lists several alarming findings about ocean (Lee et al., 2023). rise sea level has accelerated and is now three times faster than it was during period 1901-1971. increase levels multiplication of energetic oceanic events represent a real problem for management coastal infrastructure. proximity human activities near seaside makes these areas particularly vulnerable to risks. submersion risks are seriously considered, given damage that...
Summary The topographical complexity of coral reefs is primary importance for a number hydrodynamical and ecological processes. present study based on series high‐resolution seabottom elevation measurements along the Maupiti Barrier Reef, French Polynesia. Several statistical metrics spectral analysis are used to characterize spatial evolution geometrical structure from reef crest backreef. A consistent fractal‐like power law exists in density bottom length scales between 0.1 7 m, while at...
The Vaccarès Lagoon System, located in the central part of Rhône Delta (France), is a complex shallow coastal lagoon, exposed to typical Mediterranean climate and specific hydrological regime affected by man-controlled exchanges with sea agricultural drainage channels. In this article, we report results obtained series monitoring programs, different spatial temporal resolutions. Long-term datasets from 1999 2019 data collected on monthly basis high resolution highlighted significant...
Temperature is an essential oceanographic variable (EOV) that still today remains coarsely resolved below the surface and near seafloor. Here, we gather evidence to confirm Distributed Acoustic Sensing (DAS) technology can convert tens of kilometer-long seafloor fiber-optic telecommunication cables into dense arrays temperature anomaly sensors having millikelvin (mK) sensitivity, thus allowing monitor oceanic processes such as internal waves upwelling with unprecedented detail. Notably,...
ABSTRACT Shoreface sediments exposed in raised deltaic deposits along the Hudson Bay coast are characterized by a thick succession of predominantly parallel-laminated and small-scale cross-laminated fine sand. Ripple forms, where preserved, include both combined-flow wave-ripple geometries. Hummocky cross stratification is present lower parts section. Similar facies have been found cores from present-day shoreface. Measurements waves, currents, suspended sediment concentrations 10 m water...
Abstract The present paper reports of a field experiment over shallow, roughness‐varying barrier reef at Maupiti island, French Polynesia. depth‐averaged momentum balance is used to estimate the bottom drag coefficient C d , which varies from 0.01 0.3, with dependence on both depth and structure. effect well predicted by log dependency, as in previous laboratory fields observations. results extend approach system more wave exposure higher roughness‐to‐depth ratio. Additionally, statistical...
Abstract The present paper reports on a field experiment performed over shallow, roughness‐varying barrier reef at Maupiti island, French Polynesia. spectral wave energy balance is examined, outside the breaking zone and accounting for non‐linear transfers mean current, to estimate friction factor. This latter varies from 0.05 4, with dependence ratio between near‐bed orbital amplitude roughness height well predicted by an adjusted parameterization Madsen (1995). results are discussed...
Distributed Acoustic Sensing (DAS) is a photonics technology converting seafloor telecommunications and optical fiber cables into dense arrays of strain sensors, allowing to monitor various oceanic physical processes. Yet, several applications are hindered by the limited knowledge transfer function between geophysical variables DAS measurements. This study investigates quantitative relationship surface gravity DAS-recorded wave-generated signals along pressure at colocated sensor. A...
In 332 B.C., Alexander the Great constructed an ≈1,000-m-long causeway to seize offshore island of Tyre. The logistics behind this engineering feat have long troubled archaeologists. Using Holocene sedimentary record, we demonstrate that Alexander's engineers cleverly exploited a shallow proto-tombolo, or sublittoral sand spit, breach city's defensive impregnability. We elucidate three-phase geomorphological model for spit's evolution. Settled since Bronze Age, area's geological record...
The present contribution aims to provide an insight into the sediment dynamics of Bay Marseille (BoM), France, area characterised by a mostly rocky, steep-sloped, and protected shoreline. In terms composition, northern part study is dominated fines, whereas sands mean grain size 0.2 < d50 1 mm occur at most other locations. Posidonia oceanica meadows occupy many nearshore areas. Critical bed-shear stress was determined through tests in unidirectional flume using 15 natural cores. Measured...
A.-E. Paquier, S. Meulé, E.J. Anthony, G. Bernard, 2014. Sedimentation and erosion patterns in a low shoot-density Zostera noltii meadow the fetch-limited Berre Lagoon, Mediterranean France. In: Green, A.N. Cooper, J.A.G. (eds.), Proceedings 13th International Coastal Symposium (Durban, South Africa), Journal of Research, Special Issue No. 70, pp. 563–567, ISSN 0749-0208Seagrass meadows fulfill several coastal ecosystem services that include protection, provision shelter for fishes fish...
This paper focuses on a new approach to describe coastal morphodynamics, based optimization theory, and more specifically the assumption that sandy beach profile evolves in order minimize wave-related function, choice of which depends what is considered driving force behind morphodynamic processes considered. The numerical model derived from this theory uses gradient descent method allows us account for physical constraints such as sand conservation wave flume experiments. Hence,...
This study focuses on the dynamics of Wan-Tzu-Liao sand barrier when it is struck by one typhoon, a group typhoons or whole season and monsoon. In framework KUN-SHEN project, 7 months monitoring (2011-2012) provided 20 topobathymetric surveys (within 200 m long segment from subtidal zone to back-barrier) acquisitions offshore, nearshore shallow water hydrodynamics including velocity profiling, free surface measurement absolute pressure. Offshore waves were extracted at Cigu buoy (18 depth)....
Coastal protection solutions can be categorized as grey, hybrid, or natural. Grey infrastructure includes artificial structures like dykes. Natural habitats seagrasses are considered natural infrastructure. Hybrid combine both and grey Evidence suggest that negatively impact the environment, while prevent flooding without such adverse effects provide many ecosystem services. New types of protective solutions, called biomimetic inspired by reproduce their features using materials. Few studies...