A5027478628- Coastal and Marine Dynamics
- Coastal wetland ecosystem dynamics
- Tropical and Extratropical Cyclones Research
- Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
- Aeolian processes and effects
- Geological formations and processes
- Oceanographic and Atmospheric Processes
- Hydrology and Sediment Transport Processes
- Underwater Acoustics Research
- Soil erosion and sediment transport
- Marine and coastal plant biology
- Fecal contamination and water quality
- Hydrology and Watershed Management Studies
- Oil Spill Detection and Mitigation
- Flood Risk Assessment and Management
- Methane Hydrates and Related Phenomena
- Meteorological Phenomena and Simulations
- Marine Biology and Ecology Research
- Marine and coastal ecosystems
- Remote Sensing and LiDAR Applications
- Groundwater flow and contamination studies
- Marine and fisheries research
- Seismic Imaging and Inversion Techniques
- Hydraulic flow and structures
- Seismic Waves and Analysis
Delft University of Technology
2016-2025
Deltares
2014-2023
IHE Delft Institute for Water Education
2006-2023
University of Twente
2006-2023
Takenaka (Japan)
2023
The University of Tokyo
2023
University of Rochester
2023
Durham University
2023
Pacific Standard
2023
University of California, San Diego
2023
Significance We report here on results obtained from the largest upper-ocean dispersion field program conducted to date. The observations provided, for first time our knowledge, an accurate and nearly simultaneous description of ocean surface velocity spatial scales ranging 100 m km. show conclusively that flows contain significant energy at below 10 km their fluctuations dictate initial spread tracer/pollutant clouds. Neither state-of-the art operational models nor satellite altimeters...
The morphodynamic response of the nearshore zone an embayed beach induced by wave groups is examined with a numerical model. model utilizes nonlinear shallow water equations to phase resolve mean and infragravity motions in combination advection‐diffusion equation for sediment transport. transport associated short‐wave asymmetry accounted means time‐integrated contribution nonlinearity using stream function theory. two‐dimensional (2‐D) computations consider group energy made up...
We compare predictions of a coupled, wave‐averaged, cross‐shore waves‐currents‐bathymetric evolution model to observations onshore and offshore nearshore sandbar migration. The span 10‐ 44‐day period with onshore/offshore bar migration at Duck, North Carolina, Hasaki, Kashima Coast, Japan, respectively, 3.5‐month 22‐day Egmond, Netherlands. With best fit parameter values the modeled temporal bed profiles agrees well observations. Model skill, defined as 1 minus ratio prediction no‐change...
Rip currents are fast-moving flows, traveling “outward almost at right angles to the shore” ( Shepard 1936 ), creating a natural hazard for beachgoers, who suddenly find themselves in deep water. Field measurements and instrumentation, laboratory techniques, numerical modeling have improved with time, enabling more complete description of rip now. Surprisingly, there many types that can occur on beaches, these created by wide variety mechanisms presented here, along numerical, physical, or...
The growth rate, shoreline reflection, and dissipation of low‐frequency waves are investigated using data obtained from physical experiments in the Delft University Technology research flume by parameter variation numerical model Delft3D‐SurfBeat. rate shoaling incoming long wave varies with depth an exponent between 0.25 2.5. depends on a dimensionless normalized bed slope β , which distinguishes mild‐slope regime steep‐slope regime. This dependency alone is valid if forcing short not...
Application of recent geometric tools for Lagrangian coherent structures (LCS) shows that material attraction in geostrophic velocities derived from altimetry data imposed an important constraint to the motion drifters Grand Deployment (GLAD) Gulf Mexico. This is largely transparent traditional Eulerian analysis. Attracting LCS acted as approximate centerpieces mesoscale patterns formed by drifters. Persistently attracting cores emerged 1 week before development a filament resembling “tiger...
Abstract. We propose a satellite mission that uses near-nadir Ka-band Doppler radar to measure surface currents, ice drift and ocean waves at spatial scales of 40 km more, with snapshots least every day for latitudes 75 82°, few days other latitudes. The use incidence angles 6 12° allows measurement the directional wave spectrum, which yields accurate corrections wave-induced bias in current measurements. instrument's design, an algorithm vector retrieval expected performance are presented...
Abstract Many low‐elevation, coral reef‐lined, tropical coasts are vulnerable to the effects of climate change, sea level rise, and wave‐induced flooding. The considerable morphological diversity these variability hydrodynamic forcing that they exposed make predicting flooding a challenge. A process‐based wave‐resolving model (XBeach Non‐Hydrostatic, “XBNH”) was used create large synthetic database for use in “Bayesian Estimator Wave Attack Reef Environments” (BEWARE), relating incident...
Abstract Aquatic vegetation in the coastal zone attenuates wave energy and reduces risk of hazards, e.g., flooding. Besides attenuation sea‐swell waves, may also affect infragravity‐band (IG) waves setup. To date, knowledge on effect IG setup is lacking, while they are potentially important parameters for assessment. In this study, storm impact model XBeach extended with formulations effects two modes: phase‐resolving (nonhydrostatic) phase‐averaged (surfbeat) mode. surfbeat mode, a shape...
The retention of floating matter within the surf zone on a rip‐channeled beach is examined with combination detailed field observations obtained during Rip Current Experiment and three‐dimensional (3‐D) wave flow model. acoustic Doppler current profiler–observed hourly vertical cross‐shore velocity structure variability over period 3 days normally incident swell well reproduced by computations, although strong attenuation subsurface rip velocities at most offshore location outside in 4 m...