A5074114996- Coastal and Marine Dynamics
- Aeolian processes and effects
- Geological formations and processes
- Coastal wetland ecosystem dynamics
- Tropical and Extratropical Cyclones Research
- Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
- Hydrology and Sediment Transport Processes
- Maritime and Coastal Archaeology
- Soil erosion and sediment transport
- Geotechnical Engineering and Soil Mechanics
- Underwater Acoustics Research
- Isotope Analysis in Ecology
- Pacific and Southeast Asian Studies
- Geotechnical Engineering and Soil Stabilization
- Turtle Biology and Conservation
- Marine animal studies overview
Utrecht University
2013-2019
University of Amsterdam
2011
Two field data sets of near-bed velocity, pressure, and sediment concentration are analyzed to study the influence infragravity waves on sand suspension cross-shore transport. On moderately sloping Sand Motor beach (≈1:35), local ratio wave height sea-swell is relatively small (HIG/HSW<0.4), fluxes related correlation infragravity-wave orbital motion with envelope, r0. When largest present during negative velocities (bound wave, r0), most suspended here, flux qIG offshore. r0 positive,...
Abstract. We present a downscaling approach for the study of wave-induced extreme water levels at location on barrier island in Yucatán (Mexico). Wave information from 30-year wave hindcast is validated with situ measurements 8 m depth. The maximum dissimilarity algorithm employed selection 600 representative cases, encompassing different combinations characteristics and tidal level. selected cases are propagated depth to shore using coupling third-generation model phase-resolving...
In the light of currently increasing drought frequency and water scarcity on oceanic islands, it is crucial for conservation threatened insular vertebrates to assess how they will be affected. A 4000 yr old fossil assemblage in Mare Aux Songes (MAS), southwest Mauritius, Mascarene Islands, contains bones 100 000+ individual vertebrates, dominated by two species giant tortoises Cylindraspis triserrata C. inepta, dodo Raphus cucullatus, 20 other vertebrate ( Rijsdijk, Hume, Bunnik, Florens,...
As awareness on the impact of anthropogenic underwater noise marine life grows, measurement programs are needed to determine current status areas and monitor long-term trends. The Joint Monitoring Programme for Ambient Noise in North Sea (JOMOPANS) collaborative project was funded by EU Interreg collect a unique dataset levels at 19 sites across Sea, spanning many different countries covering period from 2019 2020. ambient this has been characterised compared - setting benchmark future...
Empirical parameterizations of the shortwave sand transport that are used in practical engineering models lack representation certain processes to accurately predict morphodynamics shallow water. Therefore, measurements near‐bed velocity and suspended concentration, collected during two field campaigns (at Sand Engine Ameland, Netherlands) one field‐scale laboratory experiment (BARDEXII), were here analyzed study magnitude direction flux surf zone. Shortwave fluxes dominated total...
Abstract Short‐wave sand transport in morphodynamic models is often based solely on the near‐bed wave‐orbital motion, thereby neglecting effect of ripple‐induced and surface‐induced turbulence processes. Here stirring was studied using measurements turbulence, ripple characteristics, concentration collected a field‐scale laboratory beach under conditions ranging from irregular nonbreaking waves above vortex ripples to plunging bores subdued bed forms. Turbulence were analyzed as individual...
The existence of sandy beaches relies on the onshore transport sand by waves during post-storm conditions. Most operational sediment models employ wave-averaged terms, and/or instantaneous cross-shore velocity signal, but often fail in predictions onshore-directed rates. An important reason is that they rarely consider phase relationships between wave orbital and suspended concentration. This relationship depends intra-wave structure bed shear stress hence timing magnitude turbulence...
Using new large-scale wave-flume experiments we examine the cross-section and planform geometry of wave-formed ripples in coarse sand (median grain size D50 = 430 μm) under high-energy shoaling plunging random waves. We find that remain orbital for full range encountered conditions, even wave forcing when finer ripple length λr is known to become independent near-bed diameter ds (anorbital ripples). The proportionality between not constant, but decreases from about 0.55 / ≈ 1400 0.27 11 ,...
Abstract. We present a downscaling approach for the study of wave-induced extreme water levels at location on barrier island in Yucatan (Mexico). Wave information from 30 year wave hindcast is validated with situ measurements 8 m depth. The Maximum Dissimilarity Algorithm employed selection 600 representative cases, encompassing different characteristics and tidal level combinations. selected cases are propagated depth till shore using coupling third-generation model phase-resolving...
Multiphase CFD models recently have proved promising in modelling crossâ€shore sediment transport and morphodynamics (Jacobsen et al 2014). However, breaking wave turbulence remains a major challenge for these models, because it occurs at very different spatial temporal length scales involves the interaction between surface generated bottom boundary layer. To an extent challenges arise from lack of appropriate experimental data, since most previous studies involved waves small-scale, not...