A5069926700- Coastal and Marine Dynamics
- Coastal wetland ecosystem dynamics
- Aeolian processes and effects
- Geological formations and processes
- Marine and environmental studies
- Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
- Remote Sensing and LiDAR Applications
- Tropical and Extratropical Cyclones Research
- Marine and coastal plant biology
- Land Use and Ecosystem Services
- Maritime and Coastal Archaeology
- Methane Hydrates and Related Phenomena
- Peatlands and Wetlands Ecology
- Microplastics and Plastic Pollution
- Remote-Sensing Image Classification
- Marine and Offshore Engineering Studies
- Ecology and Vegetation Dynamics Studies
- Geological Modeling and Analysis
- Geotechnical and construction materials studies
- Conservation, Biodiversity, and Resource Management
- Automated Road and Building Extraction
- Underwater Acoustics Research
- Geology and Paleoclimatology Research
Utrecht University
2014-2025
Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam
2013-2015
Abstract Crescentic sandbars and rip channels along wave‐dominated sandy beaches are relevant to understand localized beach dune erosion during storms. In recent years, a paradigm shift from hydrodynamic template models self‐organization mechanisms occurred explain the formation of these rhythmic features. double sandbar systems, both inner‐ outer‐bar crescentic planshapes now believed be free instabilities nearshore system arising through alone. However, occasional occurrence one or two...
Nearshore bathymetric data are essential for assessing coastal hazards, studying benthic habitats and engineering. Traditional bathymetry mapping techniques of ship-sounding airborne LiDAR laborious, expensive not always efficient. Multispectral hyperspectral remote sensing, in combination with machine learning techniques, gaining interest. Here, the nearshore southwest Puerto Rico is estimated multispectral Sentinel-2 PRISMA imagery using conventional spectral band ratio models more...
Abstract Double sandbar systems are common morphological features along sandy, wave‐dominated, micro‐ to meso‐tidal coastlines. In the companion paper, we demonstrated how various alongshore inner‐bar rip‐channel patterns can develop through coupling an alongshore‐variable outer bar. The simulated are, however, scarcely observed in field. Instead, rip channels more often possess remarkably smaller and variable length scales, suggesting that mechanisms do not play a substantial role overall...
Abstract There is a relative lack of research, targeted models and tools to manage beaches in estuaries bays (BEBs). Many have been highly modified urbanised, for example port developments coastal revetments. This paper outlines the complications opportunities conserving managing BEBs estuaries. To do this, we focus on eight diverse case studies from North South America, Asia, Europe, Africa Australia combined with broader global literature. Our key findings are as follows: (1) exist under...
ABSTRACT Nearshore sandbars, located in <10 m water depth, can contain remarkably periodic alongshore undulations both cross‐shore position and depth. In a double sandbar system, the spacing of these morphological patterns inner may be identical to those outer sandbar. Although this coupling has been observed previously, its frequency predominance remain unclear. paper, we use 9.3‐year dataset daily low‐tide time exposure images from double‐barred beach at Surfers Paradise (Gold Coast,...
Abstract Sandbars, submerged ridges of sand parallel to the shoreline, affect surfzone circulation, beach topography and width. Under time‐varying wave forcing, sandbars may migrate onshore offshore, referred as two‐dimensional (2D) behaviour, vary in planshape from alongshore uniform non‐uniform through growth decay three‐dimensional (3D) patterns, 3D behaviour. Although 2D sandbar behaviour is reasonably well understood along straight coasts, this not case for curved where curvature can...
Nearshore sandbars, an important natural defense mechanism of the beaches, can be monitored using shore-based video systems. Before studying bar dynamics with images, we must establish relationship between real positions and videoed (detected by preferential wave breaking on shallows). This analysis becomes essential in two studied tideless beaches Barcelona due to critical differences respect sites previously. Bogatell beach is terraced (without a trough) more than 50% profiles. There,...
Coastal dunes offer numerous functions to society, such as sea defense and recreation, host unique habitats with high biodiversity. Research on coastal dune dynamics has traditionally focused the erosional impact of short-duration (hours days), high-wave storm events most seaward dune, called foredune. In contrast, research data its subsequent slow (months years), wind-driven recovery are rather rare, yet essential aid studying processes, identifying relevant wind-forcing conditions, testing...
In double sandbar systems, the alongshore variability in inner bar often resembles that of outer bar, suggesting acts as a morphological template for bar. Earlier observations have indicated this resemblance, also termed “coupling,” may take several forms. Here we apply nonlinear 2DH morphodynamic model with time‐invariant forcing to show angle wave incidence ( θ ) is crucial alongshore‐variable evolution given crescentic contrast previous modeling efforts double‐barred which mostly used...
Birrien, F., Castelle, B., Dailloux, D., Marieu, V., Rihouey, D. and Price, T.D., 2013. Video observation of megacusp evolution along a high-energy engineered sandy beach: Anglet, SW France.We present an 18-month period video monitoring both the nearshore sandbars megacusps at Anglet Beach, France. The study site covers 2-km long stretch beach that is constrained to North by groin extends 400 m seaward. intermediate, mostly double-barred, with steep face (~1/10) favouring formation cusps...
Abstract. A field campaign was carried out at a sheltered sandy beach with the aim of gaining new insights into driving processes behind morphodynamics. Detailed measurements local hydrodynamics, bed-level changes and sediment composition were collected man-made on leeside barrier island Texel, bordering Marsdiep basin that is part Dutch Wadden Sea. The dataset consists (1) current, wave turbidity from dense cross-shore array 3 km alongshore array; (2) data surface samples; (3)...
Abstract. Subtidal sandbars often exhibit alongshore variable patterns, such as crescentic planshapes and rip channels. While the initial formation of these patterns is nowadays reasonably well understood, morphodynamic mechanisms underlying their subsequent finite-amplitude behaviour have been examined far less extensively. This concerns, among other aspects, coupling alongshore-variable in an inner bar to similar a more seaward bar, destruction patterns. paper aims present our recent...
Sandbars, submerged ridges of sand parallel to the shoreline, tend develop crescentic patterns while migrating onshore. At straight coasts, these form preferably under near‐normal waves through generation circulation cells in flow field, whereas they decay energetic oblique with associated intense alongshore currents. Recently, observations at a man‐made convex curved coast showed an variability patterning that seems related spatiotemporal local wave angle (Sand Engine). Here, we aim...
Abstract. A field campaign was carried out at a sheltered sandy beach with the aim of gaining new insights into driving processes behind morphodynamics. Detailed measurements local hydrodynamics, bed level changes and sediment composition were collected man-made on leeside barrier island Texel, bordering Marsdiep basin that is part Dutch Wadden Sea. The data set consists (1) current, wave turbidity from dense cross-shore array 3 km alongshore array, (2) surface samples, (3)...
Nearshore sandbars characterize many sandy coasts, and unravelling their dynamics is crucial to understanding nearshore sediment pathways. Sandbar morphologies exhibit complex patterns that can be classified into distinct states. The tremendous progress in data-driven learning image recognition has recently led the first automated classification of single-barred beach states from Argus imagery using a Convolutional Neural Network (CNN). Herein, we extend this method for double-barred system....
Amidst the global challenge of plastic pollution, marine environment surrounding Canary Islands is not immune to this pressing issue. Besides, northwestern African upwelling system an ideal for fisheries, which eventually become potential contributors floating debris. Entanglement in large debris fisheries origin represents a prevalent cause stranding incidents sea turtles. However, connecting activity with offshore flow towards open ocean and proves challenging due high mesoscale...
Summary Sandy beaches typically have one or more shore‐parallel bars with superimposed smaller‐scale three‐dimensional (3D) bars. Knowledge of their morphodynamic behaviour under realistic wave conditions is limited. This study investigates the response two to sinusoidally time‐varying angles incidence, using a non‐linear model. Different periods and amplitudes this sinusoidal variation are considered, as well different time‐mean angles. For time‐invariant normally incident waves, results...